artichoke omelette / by Philippa Moore

Describing the flavours of artichokes and eggs individually could be a parlour game in itself but in this pairing, the green-house scented floral tones of the artichoke cut through the richness of a perfectly fresh egg (cage eggs are an abomination and should not be considered food). There's also something in the almost lemony tang of the artichoke that really lifts the egg's low notes of sulphur.

This omelette makes the perfect light dinner if you've got in too late and fear you may succumb to a terrible takeaway. But don't limit it just to the evening, it's so easy you could make it for breakfast while the coffee is brewing. I have done both.

Drain some tinned artichoke hearts well, then halve, dredge in seasoned flour and fry until golden. Make a three-egg folded omelette as you normally would but put the fried artichokes in the middle, and maybe a bit of dill or parsley if you have them lying around, before folding on to a warm plate to eat immediately.

If the hour is appropriate and you feel like inviting even more floral mineral flavours to the party, this omelette is perfectly matched by a glass of chilled Sancerre.

*This is an exercise I did in my food writing course at Leith's where we had to write a favourite recipe in the style of a cookery writer we admire. I chose Niki Segnit, with echoes of Jane Grigson. Photo by me.